TextbookDermatologyAcne Vulgaris

Acne Vulgaris

Common inflammatory skin condition affecting ~85% of adolescents and young adults. Caused by a combination of excess sebum production, follicular hyperkeratinisation, Cutibacterium acnes colonisation, and inflammation. Presents with comedones, papules, pustules, and in severe cases, nodules and cysts. Treatment is stepwise from topical retinoids/benzoyl peroxide to oral isotretinoin for severe/scarring disease.

Key Facts

Prevalence: ~85% of 12–24-year-olds; ~12% of adult women have persistent acne Four pathogenic factors: excess sebum (androgen-driven), follicular hyperkeratinisation, C. acnes proliferation, inflammation Comedones: open (blackheads) and closed (whiteheads) — hallmark of acne; distinguish from rosacea (no comedones) Topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene): first-line for comedonal acne — normalise follicular keratinisation Benzoyl peroxide 5%: bactericidal against C. acnes; does NOT cause antibiotic resistance; combine with topical retinoid Oral isotretinoin (Roaccutane): 0.5–1mg/kg/day for 16–24 weeks; only treatment that addresses ALL four pathogenic factors; teratogenic — iPLEDGE programme (or UK equivalent) mandatory pregnancy prevention COCP (co-cyprindiol/Dianette): anti-androgenic; useful for females with hormonal acne; increased VTE risk NICE CG (2021): recommends fixed-combination topicals as first-line (adapalene + benzoyl peroxide)

Overview

Key Facts

Acne is not just a cosmetic condition — it causes significant psychological distress and can lead to permanent scarring. Early effective treatment prevents both physical and psychological sequelae.

Epidemiology

  • Affects ~85% of adolescents (12–24 years)
  • Adult female acne increasingly recognised (~12% of women >25 years)
  • Male:female ~1:1 in adolescence; female predominance in adults

Aetiology

  1. Androgen-driven sebum excess: DHT stimulates sebaceous glands
  2. Follicular hyperkeratinisation: abnormal desquamation → microcomedone formation
  3. C. acnes colonisation: lipophilic anaerobe; produces lipases and pro-inflammatory mediators
  4. Inflammation: innate immune activation (TLR2) → cytokines → papules, pustules, nodules

Pathophysiology

  • Testosterone → 5-alpha reductase → DHT → sebaceous gland hypertrophy → excess sebum
  • Abnormal keratinocyte desquamation in follicular infundibulum → microcomedone (precursor of all acne lesions)
  • C. acnes proliferates in sebum-rich, anaerobic follicle → activates innate immunity via TLR2
  • Severe inflammation → follicle rupture → nodules, cysts → scarring

Clinical Presentation

Non-Inflammatory

  • Open comedones (blackheads): dilated pore with oxidised melanin/sebum
  • Closed comedones (whiteheads): small flesh-coloured papules

Inflammatory

  • Papules: small raised erythematous lesions
  • Pustules: papules with visible pus
  • Nodules: deep, painful, >5mm
  • Cysts: deep fluctuant lesions — risk of scarring

Distribution

  • Face (99%), back (60%), chest (15%)

Scarring

  • Ice-pick, rolling, boxcar scars
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (especially darker skin)

Red Flags

  • Sudden severe acne in pre-pubertal child (evaluate for androgen excess)
  • Acne with virilisation in females (PCOS, adrenal tumour)
  • Severe nodulo-cystic acne with systemic symptoms (acne fulminans)
  • Significant psychological distress/suicidal ideation

Differential Diagnosis

DiagnosisKey FeaturesInvestigation
RosaceaNo comedones, central face, telangiectasia, age >30Clinical
Perioral dermatitisPerioral/perinasal papulopustules, no comedonesClinical
FolliculitisMonomorphic pustules centred on hair folliclesSwab for MC&S
MiliaTiny white cysts (keratin-filled), no inflammationClinical
Drug-induced acneMonomorphic, temporal drug relationship (steroids, lithium)Drug history

Diagnosis / Investigation

Clinical Diagnosis

  • History and examination sufficient in most cases
  • Grade severity: mild (comedones ± few papules/pustules), moderate (papulopustular), severe (nodulo-cystic/scarring)

If Indicated

  • Hormonal screen (females): if PCOS suspected — testosterone, SHBG, DHEAS, LH, FSH, prolactin
  • Pelvic USS: if PCOS features
  • Pre-isotretinoin: FBC, LFTs, fasting lipids, pregnancy test (before, during, 1 month after)
  • Psychiatric assessment: if significant mood disturbance before/during isotretinoin

Management

Mild (Comedonal/Few Papulopustules)

  • First-line: fixed-combination adapalene 0.1% + benzoyl peroxide 2.5% (Epiduo) OD
  • Alternative: topical retinoid alone (adapalene, tretinoin) or benzoyl peroxide 5% alone

Moderate (Papulopustular)

  • Fixed-combination topical + consider oral antibiotics
  • Oral antibiotics: lymecycline 408mg OD or doxycycline 100mg OD for 3 months maximum
  • ALWAYS combine oral antibiotic with topical retinoid/BPO (prevents resistance)
  • Do NOT use topical and oral antibiotics together

Severe (Nodulo-Cystic/Scarring) or Treatment-Resistant

  • Oral isotretinoin 0.5–1mg/kg/day for 16–24 weeks (cumulative dose 120–150mg/kg)
  • Teratogenic: mandatory pregnancy prevention programme (2 forms of contraception or abstinence; monthly pregnancy tests)
  • Side effects: dry skin/lips (universal), myalgia, raised lipids, raised LFTs, mood changes (monitor)
  • Monitor: LFTs and fasting lipids at baseline, 1 month, then 3-monthly

Females with Hormonal Acne

  • COCP: co-cyprindiol (Dianette) — anti-androgenic; increased VTE risk (limit to 3–4 courses)
  • Spironolactone 50–200mg OD: off-label; anti-androgen; useful in adult female acne

Referral Criteria

  • Dermatology: severe/scarring acne, treatment failure with oral antibiotics, consideration for isotretinoin
  • Urgent: acne fulminans, severe psychological distress

Prognosis

  • Most adolescent acne resolves by mid-20s
  • ~12% of women have persistent adult acne
  • Isotretinoin: ~80% achieve long-term remission after one course; ~20% need second course
  • Scarring: permanent without treatment; early effective therapy prevents
  • Psychological impact: depression, anxiety, reduced self-esteem — comparable to chronic disease

Other Relevant Information

Acne Treatment Ladder

SeverityFirst-LineSecond-Line
Mild comedonalTopical retinoid ± BPOAzelaic acid
Mild papulopustularAdapalene + BPO+ oral antibiotic
ModerateOral antibiotic + topical retinoid + BPOHormonal (females)
Severe/scarringOral isotretinoinRepeat course

Isotretinoin Key Points

ParameterDetail
Dose0.5–1mg/kg/day
Duration16–24 weeks
Cumulative dose120–150mg/kg
Pregnancy testBefore, monthly, 1 month after
MonitoringLFTs, fasting lipids